With just 25 miles separating Düsseldorf and Cologne along The Rhine, there’s some overlap between their beer cultures. Visit a Brauhaus in either city and their iconic beers – Altbier and Kölsch, respectively – are traditionally served from wooden barrels (vom Fass) by waiters called Köbesse.

These waiters are known for having an attitude, adding a bit of theater to the experience. They circulate through a brewery’s pub with trays of small, cylindrical beer glasses (called “Stangen” or “Stange” if it’s just one) and will replace a customer’s drink as soon as it’s empty – if not sooner. These trays are called Kranz, and the ones used in Cologne are specifically designed with slots to hold each glass.

A Köbine carrying a Gaffel Kranz. Image source: Gaffel.

Altbier and Kölsch are also unusual as they’re ales in a country known for lager. They’re holdovers from a time when lager wasn’t so dominant.

The beers themselves are the most notable difference between the two cultures. Kölsch is pale, light, and refreshing, while Altbier is darker and has a more robust flavor, lending itself well to hearty dishes.

The Glasses

From left to right (all images sourced from the respective brewery): 1. A Köbes fills a Kranz at Brauerei Päffgen. 2. Holding a Stange of Früh Kölsch. 3. A Stange of Uerige Altbier. Notice the notches on the coaster indicating how many beers the customer has had. 4. A toast to Füchschen Alt.

Much more subtle, but still distinctive, the glass used for Altbier is different than the one used for Kölsch. Simply put, they both have a circular, cylindrical shape, leading to the name “Stange”, which means rod or pole, but the Altbier glass is a bit more stout than the slender Kölsch glass. Though both styles can come in various sizes, Kölsch is typically served in a 0.2L glass and Altbier in a 0.25L glass.

Scouring old glassware catalogs, I can’t find any examples of an Altbier glass that was specifically connected to the style or to Düsseldorf. However, there were several examples for Kölsch going back to the 1930s.

Clip from the 1937/38 Ankerglas Bernsdorf catalog depicting two Kölner Stangen. Image source: glas-musterbuch.de

Though there isn’t a lot of readily available details on the history of these glasses, it is clear that both have been part of the beer cultures in these two cities for generations. And it’s hard to imagine anyone would think of using a different glass any time soon. Aside from perhaps the Masskrug at Oktoberfest, the respective Stangen with Altbier and Kölsch are more hand in hand than any other beer style/glass combo in Germany. So, don’t expect to find your beer in a shaker pint or a TeKu on your next trip to Düsseldorf or Cologne. Joking aside, don’t even expect to see it in the versatile and widely used Willi Becher, which is not a bad alterntive if you’re in a pinch.

The Kölsch Convention

In fact, in Cologne, the glass is so entwined with the culture that its use was formally recognized in the 1986 Kölsch Convention – an agreement between the brewers of Cologne that dictates the parameters for what can be called “Kölsch”.

Within the text is the following passage:

The producers of "Kölsch" shall use their best efforts to ensure that "Kölsch" is only served in the so-called "Kölsch-Stange" (Cologne-Stange), as is commonly used for serving "Kölsch."

In the States

Milk Tube in a Kölsch Stange at Human Robot Brewery in Philadelphia, PA. Image source: Human Robot.

Between the two glasses, the Kölsch Stange is more widely used in the States, which corresponds with the greater ubiquity of the beer style. It has also become the vessel of choice for the “milk tube” trend made popular by Human Robot in Philadelphia where wet foam from a Lukr faucet is poured into a Stange and drank like a shot.

But Altbier is a great style that I’d love to see more brewers making. And if they want to live that #properglassware life, Altbier glasses are readily available from reputable companies like Rastal and Sahm to serve those beers.

Choosing one glass over the other isn’t going to greatly impact your sensory experience when drinking Kölsch or Altbier, outside of the visual aspect that traditionalists and beer nerds like me hold dearly. However, that doesn’t mean that we should use the two interchangeably. They certainly don’t in Germany.

Paradise?

Conversations about breweries and gentrification often criticize the breweries and their customers without giving greater recognition to why the businesses establish themselves in certain areas. It’s more of a function of land use regulations called “zoning” and less of a greedy ploy by racist yeast wranglers.

A recent post by Jen Blair (Under the Jenfluence) titled “Gentrification is Sparkling Colonialism: They paved paradise and only made fruited sours” addresses the role breweries play in gentrification. And while the post is well-intended and ultimately offers an array of positive things that can be done, the way it mixes breweries with boutiques and other gentrifying land uses may oversimplify the dynamics of how breweries enter these neighborhoods.

In most communities around the country, breweries are confined to fringe areas where land use laws allow them to operate. Industrial and manufacturing uses are often isolated from the rest of our communities to protect residents from a variety of potentially harmful impacts. You know, bad smells, loud noises, pollution, etc.

And who has historically lived adjacent to these noxious areas? That’s right, low-income people of color. This of course is not happenstance and is a product of institutional racism.

The Evolution of Industrial Land

As industry in the US declined in the last half-century, many industrial areas have been “targeted” for redevelopment. That’s not necessarily a bad thing. Something does need to happen to these properties. In addition to being eyesores, at best, they often have unchecked contamination seeping into the surrounding communities.

That doesn’t mean the solution is luxury residential towers, yoga studios, and high-end boutiques, but these areas do need reinvestment.

While it’s true that breweries have been part of some redevelopment initiatives that may also include coffee shops and natural wine bars, as Jen points out, unlike the other uses, breweries have always occupied industrial spaces. It’s not fair to lump them together with the other businesses.

True, the nature of modern breweries, with their cornhole games, sip and paint events, and stroller debates, is much different than it was in past generations. Whereas breweries were once gigantic factories not open to the community, they are now much smaller operations with a public-facing element. They now lure outsiders into previously marginalized communities and that has proven to be harmful in many instances.

Perpetrator or Victim?

The irony is that breweries themselves are often victims of these redevelopment efforts.

To allow for legal redevelopment of former industrial lands, many communities eliminate industrial zoning to allow for pricey apartments and fancy coffee shops. This further restricts opportunities for breweries, making industrial land more competitive for the businesses that remain.

Even when breweries are allowed to remain, rising land values in revitalized neighborhoods can price them out – especially if they rent their space. After all, land zoned for a luxury high-rise is exponentially more valuable than that for a one-story haze factory. So, the breweries become victims of the neighborhood’s success.

That so-called “success” often spills over into adjacent neighborhoods, and I assume that’s the ‘paradise’ referenced in Jen’s subtitle. And I think it’s important to make that distinction of the land that is redeveloped. An abandoned truck depot repurposed as a brewery is different than a block of rowhouses razed for an Orange Theory below a tower of multimillion-dollar condos.

And whereas many other businesses have opportunities to locate elsewhere in the city where the zoning is permissive for them, breweries remain confined to industrial zones.

What can be done?

We need to advocate for policies that preserve affordable space for beer production and provide incentives for taprooms to be located in neighborhoods that are not at risk of being caught in the cycle of gentrification (unless, of course, the business is from people of that community). We also need to allow for small-scale brewing in areas where it has traditionally been prohibited—where it can properly be accommodated.

Beyond that, breweries should partner with local groups, activists, artists, etc., and hire locals to the extent feasible. They should offer their space for community meetings and events. They should also support local businesses in whatever ways they can, including allowing pop-up markets in their taprooms with local vendors. Finally, beer should be used to strengthen communities, not tear them apart.

After a seven-year absence, New York City once again has an establishment bearing a Cask Marque designation. Though many outside of England may not know what that means (there are only fifteen here in the US), I’m…firkin pumped!?!

Cask Marque is a UK-based accreditation program that verifies establishments serving cask beer meet a certain standard. Among other things, they assess beer temperature, appearance, and flavor. Last month, Brooklyn’s Wild East earned its accreditation for the first time.

While accreditation is not required to pull a proper pint, the stamp of approval does indicate to consumers that the business knows what they’re doing when managing and serving real ale (or lager). I could nitpick a little about the program’s standards and methods (and their Cask Ale Week missteps in 2023), but overall, I think it’s a good thing.

Wild East refurbished a beer engine they got from Bradley Gillett, owner of Seneca Lake Brewing Company, and began pulling pints from it in 2023 with an emphasis on traditional British beer styles like ESB and Dark Mild. The engine was originally from a pub in Sussex, England.

Due to space limitations, they fill pins (5.4-gallon casks) for their regular onsite cask service (firkins, which hold 10.8 gallons, are more common in England). However, there’s talk of potentially adding a second handpump.

New York previously had a couple of other recognized places with a Cask Marque like the Jones Wood Foundry, but it has since expired (just a note though, Jones Wood Foundry continues to serve well-poured pints of cask ale nonetheless. This occasionally includes beer from Wild East).

Wild East celebrated the official recognition on May 1st with two special casks (one from the handpump and one bar top cask for gravity pours). Fish and chips were also available, and the night’s playlist was all British music.

I made it just in time to try their ESB, Moderance, before it kicked. For the event, Moderance was cask-conditioned with hyssop.  I also almost kicked the Brown Ale, Digital Dissonance, that was cask-conditioned with applewood and refermented with brown sugar. However, another cask of that was lined up to keep the killer beer flowing through the night.  

When Wild East opened in 2020, there were no Cask Marque locations in the city. In just a few short years, they have established themselves as a widely respected brewery, and their taproom has become one of the best hangs in the city for fans of good beer. With them touting this accreditation, it’s hopeful that others will be inspired to, if not get a Cask Marque, at least start pouring delicious pints of cask beer (sparkler, or not).

View of the bar at the infamous, and now shuttered Mars Bar in New York City. Image source: Yelp.

Right out of the gates, an article about dive bar food is problematic. In its purest form, a dive bar has no food. I started thinking about this after reading a recent VinePair post ranking dive bar “bites”. Realizing I have a lot of pent-up thoughts about dive bars after years of reading write-ups that don’t seem to align with my vision of them, I decided to prepare this guide.

From the Street

On the outside, a dive bar shouldn’t seem too inviting. In fact, its appearance should make you question whether the place is even open. Windows should be small or obstructed in some way to shield potentially nefarious behavior from the outside. Graffiti, stickers, and other items likely adorn the facade with little concern from the owners about how the place appears.

There may be a neon sign in the window for a brewery. It may even be a smaller, local-ish brewery, leading you to think there might be some fancy beer inside. Don’t be fooled by this.

Walking In

It can be a bit of a crapshoot walking into a dive bar. Assessing the room, you should notice at least one person who is on the verge of throwing up or having an overdose. Most patrons are regulars that often feel like they’re a family, and you’ve just entered their home.

Depending on when you’re catching them on their daily journey, you might get some unwelcoming stares. This could indicate it’s time to turn around and leave, or maybe you’ll just be doing a one-and-done. If you stay, use caution, but don’t let it make you think that you may not ultimately be accepted.

Alternatively, a new face might be warmly welcomed as dive bar regulars sometimes get bored of each other. Further, don’t be so concerned about your appearance. One of the beauties of a great dive bar is the acceptance of all kinds of people as long as they’re in it for a good time.  

Ordering a Drink

You should have cash at a dive bar. Most good ones don’t take credit cards and don’t even know what Apple Pay is. Further, they likely don’t have an ATM. And if they did, using it would be super risky as they’re an ideal target for thieves using skimmers to steal your account info.

Have realistic expectations about what is offered and don’t be put off by plastic cups. Glassware requires washing and sanitizing, and these tasks are not a priority at a dive.

Drinks are generally basic and limited. Keep it simple. Rum and Coke, Vodka Cranberry, and so on. A beer and a shot always work.

For beer, it’s best to avoid anything on draft, if they even have a draft system. The staff likely don’t realize that draft lines should be cleaned every couple of weeks, which leads to some very off-tasting beer. Stick to bottles and cans and expect Budweiser, Pabst, Miller, Corona, etc. There may also be some regional brands like Genny, Narragansett, Old Style, and Rainier.

Settling In

Read the room. If you’ve been welcomed by the crew, don’t be afraid to engage. If you’re not catching the warmest vibes, it’s best to be reserved. And remember, they’re a family. If you piss off one, you’re likely pissing off everyone in the joint.

Entertainment

Entertainment at a dive bar typically consists of drinking and conversation. There’s a chance there might be a jukebox of some sort. Don’t be afraid to use it. The selection is often already vetted by the staff and regulars. So, you likely can’t go wrong with what you pick. Further, they may appreciate you coughing up money to play some tunes for everyone to enjoy.

Fancier spots may also have a pool table. However, if that table is in decent condition, you may not be in a dive bar. Instead, you should expect warped cues, an incomplete set of balls that are chipped, an uneven table, and tears in the cloth.  

If there is a television, it should be a piece of shit and there should never be a time when a notable number of people care what’s on it.

Hungry?

Don’t come to a dive bar expecting to eat. It’s a drinking establishment. Having no food at all is the standard.

However, it may be possible to find a bowl of popcorn, pretzels, nuts, and the like. Additionally, there may be a rack of stale chips, usually at a very affordable price.

Fancier places may have a fryer, grill, and/or microwave. And if you’re brave enough to eat food prepared at a dive bar, you want it to be fried or nuked. But starting here, you’re beginning to cross a threshold toward a regular bar. With these, there are all kinds of additional permits, health code standards, etc. that are too much of a headache for a place where people just want to get fucked up.

Nonetheless, here you may be able to get fries, wings, a burger, or a hot dog. Tater tots might be acceptable, but could be a sign that you’re in a hipster-type dive bar.

There should be no vegetables on the premises. Nearly all ingredients should frozen or canned and require very little skill to prepare.

Further, a properly trained chef and any dish beyond what is mentioned above is more proof that you’re likely not in a dive bar. One should take no pride in the food that is served.

The Bathroom

The bathroom in a dive bar is used to go to the bathroom and to do drugs. That said, drugs may be openly consumed in some places.

The bathroom will be absolutely filthy and covered with graffiti, stickers, etc. If there is a toilet seat (don’t be surprised if there’s not), men will use their feet to lift the seat and to flush the toilet. For women, you will have to hover or cover the seat with toilet paper (a nest, as my wife says). However, there may not even be toilet paper. So, it might be good to go to the bar equipped with your own paper products.

Last call

Hours at a dive bar can vary greatly and can be inconsistent. A good one is open for most of the day. That’s part of their charm. Reliably being there for you, hassle-free, when you need a drink.

Keep all this in mind before heading into a dive bar and you may have some great times at one. You may even become part of the family, for better or worse.   

Rudy Johnson’s Olde English 40-ounce skateboard for Blind. Image source: Sk8Cheddar.

Rudy Johnson’s 1990s Blind Skateboard deck with a 40-ounce of Olde English on it really caught my attention back in the day. It was simple and bold, and immediately recognizable. Perhaps more importantly, it also showed something that was part of skate culture at the time.

Sure, pounding a 40 and hurling yourself off a ledge or trying to grind a rail on a set of stairs is questionable, in hindsight, but let’s put that aside. Beer has long been intertwined with skate culture and that has manifested itself in a variety of ways – including its depiction on skateboards. These are a few of my favorites (I did my best to avoid any bad people.)

Johnson claimed that the idea for the 40-ounce board came from Blind co-founder and legendary skater Mark Gonzalez. Ironically, he says he had never even drank a 40 before the board was made. Regardless, they were a common sight at skate spots in the 90s. Though many boards came later that also featured 40s in some way – often with logo ripoffs – this one was one of the most memorable.

Elissa Steamer Corona bottle deck by Toy Machine. Image source: GFK BAR.

Speaking of logo ripoffs, Elissa Steamer’s Corona-inspired deck was also highly recognizable. Steamer was one of the most notable skaters in the late 90s and early aughts when she rode for Toy Machine and Baker. The era was marked by heavy partying, especially within the infamous Piss Drunx crew, which she was part of. It’s no surprise that the image of a beer made it onto one of her boards. Like many of her peers from that era who partied way too hard, Steamer is now sober.

Toy Machine’s roster has continued to include skaters who like a beer or two, including Collin Provost. His passion for beer was combined with a very Toy Machine aesthetic on the Beer Guzz deck.

Collin Provost Beer Guzz deck by Toy Machine and PBR/Santa Cruz Screaming Hand deck. Image sources: Board Paradise and Skate America.

At the height of Pabst Blue Ribbon’s (PBR) efforts to capture the hipster beer-drinking market, they partnered with Santa Cruz to release a deck that combined the iconic Screaming Hand design with PBR’s branding. The result? A pretty sick board that perfectly blends imagery for both brands.

The cartoon depiction of Milo Aukerman on the cover of the Descendents’ debut album, Milo Goes to College, is also iconic. One of the standout songs on the album is “Suburban Home”. To celebrate their fifth anniversary in 2023, Hermosa Brewing Company teamed up with the band to release Suburban Foam, a beer that was accompanied by a ton of cool merch – including a skateboard.

Suburban Foam deck by Hermosa Brewing Company and Crush it Like Quint deck by Narragansett. Image sources: Hermosa Brewing Company and Narragansett.

Narragansett, a slightly older name in the beer business, has done a great job of retaining its stature as an older brand while making well-calculated efforts to connect with a younger generation. This includes the release of a few skateboards. A particular standout is the Crush it Like Quint deck, which capitalizes on their long-standing association with Jaws.

At one point, Narragansett had a skateboard made for them by a now-defunct New England skate company called Tasty. Also gone is Pretty Things Beer and Ale Project (resurrected as Brewery of St Mars of the Desert in Sheffield, England). Before Tasty and Pretty Things closed shop, the latter had the former make a deck featuring their Jack D’Or character doing a kickflip. For fans of Pretty Things, it’s super cool. I’m one of those fans. I’d be willing to part ways with a non-essential organ to have one.

Pretty Things Beer and Ale Project deck by Tasty Skateboards. Image source: Tasty Skateboards.

That’s what I have for now. Let me know if you have a favorite board featuring beer. I might have to do a part two.