A toast with Tørst’s 13th anniversary mug. Image courtesy of Sam Casner/Tørst.

Tørst, the revered Brooklyn beer bar, is once again celebrating its anniversary with the release of a limited-edition ceramic mug. They’ve offered different types of drinkware in the past, but for the second year in a row, they will be partnering with Whim Wares to produce the mugs. And this time around, the mugs will also celebrate Suarez Family Brewery.

Since opening in 2013, drinkware has been an important part of elevating the experience at Tørst. The overwhelming majority of the beers are served in a stemmed wine glass bearing the same design, but in varying colors.

It was a bold move that made Tørst stand out at the time, when many judged a beer bar based on the diversity of its drinkware. The glasses instantly became one of the most iconic features of the bar that puts an emphasis on the sensory element of drinking beer.

Though most beers at Tørst are served in the glass in the middle, they occassionally will use the glasses depicted on the left and right as well. Images courtesy of Sam Casner/Tørst.

Tørst works with Laura Ernst of Whim Wares to create the limited-edition, handmade mugs. Graphic designer Molly Baker created the artwork, which includes a brewer holding a mash tun paddle (that was an old tool brewers used to stir grain and hot water).

Choosing a ceramic mug is an excellent move toward something that is the polar opposite of a stemmed wine glass. Tørst’s Beer and Wine Buyer, Sam Casner, notes that this is by design.

Sam describes it as “sort of a break from the more serious analysis of beer sipping, but that need not be a less meaningful experience.” He adds that it makes it “especially celebratory.”

For this year’s mug, Tørst chose to highlight Suarez Family Brewery with the release. Sam wants to celebrate Suarez’s English-style ales, which he rightfully notes are “quaffable” and “deliciously nuanced.” You’ll find the Suarez logo, in addition to the Tørst logo, on the bottom of the mug.

Image courtesy of Sam Casner/Tørst.

I find that these beer styles, especially from nitro or cask, have similarities to the Keller and Zwickel beers of Franconia. And there’s something about those beer styles being served in a stein (often a keferloher) that works really well.

I can’t put my finger on why, but despite not being able to see the beer, and despite the steins often lacking curvature, the beers taste better when served in them. It makes sense that these British beer styles would also taste great in a ceramic mug.  

Though British beer drinkware hasn’t been terribly exciting for the last century or so, there was a deep and rich tradition of stoneware mugs in its history. They were more subdued in design than the ornate steins you might’ve found in Bavaria. This modesty makes it even more fitting for subtle ales (just like a simple keferloher is more appropriate for a Kellerbier.) So, I really love this pairing at Tørst, and I’d love to see more easy-going British ales being served in gorgeous mugs like the ones made by Whim Wares.

Tørst will be pouring a few of Suarez’s British-style beers over the month, including Saunter, their Dark Mild, as well as Be Golden and Amenable, which are two different types of Bitter. There will also be a bunch of the brewery’s other beers, including other ales, lagers, and mixed-fermentation beers.

There are just forty mugs up for grabs on a first-come, first-served basis, starting at noon on Sunday, May 17th. There’s a limit of two per person.

Tørst is located at 615 Manhattan Avenue in Brooklyn. Find them online here and on Instagram at @torst_nyc.

A pint of Guinness at Hartley’s in Brooklyn, NY.

Irish comedian Peter Flanagan posted a clip about Irish Americans that has me thinking about pubs. The premise of the bit is that Irish Americans are more conservative than the Irish, but they also have a lot in common with the LGBT community.

It resonated with me as I thought about the Irish pubs I’ve known over the years, primarily in the metro New York area. While Flanagan was stereotyping, Irish American pubs often help make his case.

He mentions how identity and parades are important to both groups. One similarity he didn’t mention is the importance of flags to Irish American and the LGBT communities. To be clear, Irish pubs are not the kind of places you’ll find a pride flag waving in the breeze.

Instead, US and Irish flags are common. Whether that’s a sign of patriotism or nationalism depends on the particular pub you’re in.

A Guinness at Ryan’s Daughter in the Upper East Side of Manhattan.

Pints of Guinness at Swift Hibernian Lounge in Manhattan’s East Village.

There’s a pub near me that also flies the thin blue line flag. Given the long history of Irish Americans working as law enforcement (in addition to being firefighters), this isn’t surprising.  

While some argue that flag is simply meant to show support for law enforcement, others take it as a sign that certain types of people are not welcome. This would include the LGBT community. But that’s just one bar.   

A more ubiquitous, but less divisive gesture is the patches from fire and police departments often found on the interior walls of these pubs. These don’t automatically mean that they’re MAGA haunts, but they may be a subtle cue that you’re in Trump country.

A pint of Guinness at Rory Dolan’s in Yonkers, NY.

But not all Irish pubs in New York fit the stereotype. Some exude Irish culture without coming across as right-wing or nationalist. Though there are some that have been around for a while, there’s been a particular uptick in the last ten years or so. At these places, there’s less kitsch and less chance of hearing the record scratch if you roll in decked out in Pride gear.

And unlike many of the traditional places, selling a proper pint of Guinness is a point of pride at the newer spots. So, you’ll have much greater chances of getting an “absolute creamer.” Even if it is a lesser US version.

Ultimately, while the Guinness is a draw at these pubs, the best part is being able to savor that pint and be in a space that is welcoming to all.  

Teku mug by Rastal. Image source: Rastal.

I felt a bit validated about my drinkware niche when several people DM’d me regarding a new beer mug released by Rastal. According to their website:

To mark the 20th anniversary of the iconic Teku glass, RASTAL is expanding the range with the new Teku Mug – a modern lager glass inspired by Bohemian beer culture and designed by Teo Musso.

(For a quick background, the Teku glass was originally designed in collaboration with Teo Musso, the founder of Birra Baladin in Italy.)

While the Teku inspiration is clear, the mug works better if you can disassociate it from the original stemmed glass. It has some baggage, with many turned off by its angular shape. I suspect this mug will be less divisive.

A joint Budvar/Baladin post on social media puts a different spin on the purpose of the mug. It claims to have been created to celebrate the release of “Alla Ceca”, a new collab beer made by the two breweries. It’s the first lager ever brewed by Baladin.

The overall shape feels less angular than the stemmed version, and the diamond pattern gives a nice nod to the Czech heritage of crystal production, though it is a bit posh. Nonetheless, the mug is successful in conveying a Czech lager aesthetic.

One anomaly to note is its 0.4L size. I mentioned in my last post on Czech drinkware that some places were serving beers in this size. However, it doesn’t seem like this has become common, and 0.3L and 0.5L sizes remain most typical for lager mugs.

Several years ago, Budvar had a big campaign surrounding the release of a different mug. So, it’s interesting to see this new gesture. It seems glassware is important to them, and it has made me wonder whether their efforts are inspiring others.

Aside from Budvar, Urquell, and Kozel, I didn’t mention other big breweries in my prior post. But since then, I’ve noticed efforts by Bernard and Krušovice.

Karol Maier mug by Bernard. Image source: Bernard.

I totally missed Bernard’s Karol Maier mug last time around.

Released in 2020 and manufactured by Sahm, the mug takes inspiration from one made over a century ago. The elegant vessel has a round shape, an embossed logo, and subtle waviness to it. I’m not terribly familiar with Bernard, and some of their marketing materials make me cringe, but I love this mug.

Krušovice launched a campaign for their new mug just last month. It’s another elegant glass, also embossed with its logo. There are similarities between it and the Bernard mug that are likely due to prominent glassware designer Rony Plesl being involved in the creation of both.  

The new Krušovice mug. Image source: Krušovice.

Two new lager mugs made for the Ambiente restaurant group. Image source: UMPRUM Praha Instagram page.

A Tübinger mug at a Lokal pub. Image source: Lokal.

Aside from these historic beer institutions, younger ones are also making a statement when it comes to drinkware, especially those under the consistently growing Ambiente food and beverage empire. They just released two special mugs for select restaurants and Lokal beer bars.

In an Instagram post, they note, “Czech beer deserves Czech glassware: We are reviving the tradition of Czech crystal beer mugs.”

The mug designs came out of a collaboration between students at UMPRUM (the Academy of Arts, Architecture, and Design in Prague), BOMMA glassworks, the PIVO Institute, and Ambiente founder Tomáš Karpíšek. They’re elegant and contemporary, but built on a timeless aesthetic.

As production and distribution of these are limited, the Lokal pubs still make regular use of Tübinger mugs when serving lager, as many others do.

Three different types of glassware used by Pult in Prague. Image sources: Pult.

Pult is another contemporary beer bar under the Ambiente umbrella, and they haven’t changed much since my last post. They use the Ludwig mug by Sahm for lagers (one of my favorites) and a stemmed tulip glass for other beer. I have noticed they now also use nonics for ales and some other styles that don’t necessarily pair well with their other two glasses.

When serving lager, younger Czech breweries are using lager mugs. Reinforcing the Ambiente quote above, it appears there’s a general understanding that Czech lager belongs in a proper lager mug.

Some common ones that wouldn’t look out of place in an American taproom include Sahm’s Prag, Praha, and the previously mentioned Ludwig, as well as Rastal’s Bamberg mug.

Three differrent lager mugs, including a Prag mug used by Sibeeria, a Praha mug used by Chroust and the Bamberg mug used by Radous. Image sources: Sibeeria, Chroust, Radous.

Pivovar Clock nonic glass. Image source: Pivovar Clock.

Three shaker pints from Czech breweries. Image sources: Twinberg, Vinohradský, Trilobit.

A handful of breweries use nonic glasses like Pult. The shaker pint is even being used (e.g., Vinohradsky, Zhurak, Trilobit, Twinberg). This may be disappointing for some, but I don’t think it’s anything to worry about.

Beyond lager, a variety of glassware choices are being embraced that are consistent with other contemporary breweries around the globe.

Three different beer glasses from contemporary Czech breweries. Image sources: Pivo Falkon, Pivovar Strahov, Pivovar Zichovec.

The good news is that it appears no one in the Czech Republic is taking cues from Dva Kohouti by using British dimple mugs for lager beer, unlike scores of US breweries. The Czech brewery finds the mug is versatile, supporting the diversity of beers they make (not just lager.) I can appreciate that, even though it wouldn’t be my pick.

Czech beer culture is inclusive of both tradition and modernity at the moment. This is in contrast to Bavaria, where I recently experienced their stubborn adherence to tradition (and I’m certainly not hating on them for that). In the Czech Republic, drinkware continues to be dynamic, built on a reputable history, and fully embracing the present.

The last time I was in Munich, I wasn’t as obsessed with drinkware as I am now. This time around, I paid a bit more attention and found that everything was, for the most part, on the up and up.

In particular, my vessel of choice, the Willi Becher, seemed to be the most widely used glass around town. It’s commonly used at breweries, bars, and restaurants.

A half-liter of Augustiner Helles in a Willi Becher glass at Augustiner Bräustuben.

But I also love a keferloher. The utilitarian yet elegant stein is in regular use in Bavaria for half and full liter pours. I had a half-liter from a freshly tapped wooden keg (i.e. vom holzfass) at Ayinger am Platzl in one. It would’ve been fine in a Willi Becher, but the handled ceramic mug made it better.

This was also the case when I attended Starkbierfest at Paulaner am Nockherberg and had an obligatory liter of Doppelbock. A one-liter glass mug wouldn’t have felt out of line in Munich, but unlike Oktoberfest, everyone uses a keferloher at Starkbierfest. It’s part of why the lesser-known beer fest may be better than the one held in October. And September.

Two Keferloher mugs. On the left, a half-liter at Ayinger am Platzl. On the right a liter at Starkbierfest, celebrated at Paulaner am Nockherberg.

The first beer I had in town was an incredibly tasty Augustiner Helles vom Holzfass served in a gold-rimmed, conical glass. This was at Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom. Though I have no issue with the glass, I’d prefer a Willi Becher.

The thing about this glass, though, is that I’m sure the shaker pint haters of the world would drink this beer without batting an eyelash, despite similarities between the two. The reason is that at the end of the day, the shaker isn’t the villain many in the beer world like to make it out to be.

A conical glass of Augustiner Helles at Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom.

Speaking of controversial glasses, I was a bit surprised when I was served a Schankbier in a Teku glass at a Giesinger Bräu standing bar (Stehausschank). The simple, low-ABV lager would have been perfectly paired with a Willi Becher. It felt out of place in the showy Teku.

I appreciate Giesinger’s subtle injections of modernity in Munich beer culture, but this particular gesture was off the mark for me. Nonetheless, it was an absolutely delicious beer, and I wish we saw more beers like this in the US.

Lager beer served in a Teku glass at a Giesinger standing bar (Stehausschank).

Back to the traditional drinkware. This time with a beer and corresponding glass that aren’t go-tos for me: Hefeweizen. However, I appreciate it and I’m a sucker for tradition. So, the traditional Weisswurst breakfast (Weisswurstfrühstück) at Schneider’s Weisses Bräuhaus im Tal, paired with their Original Hefeweizen in a proper weizen glass, helped nurse a pedantic beer nerd’s hangover.

Ensuring I had made my best efforts to curb my hangover, I strolled two blocks from Weisses to Hofbräuhaus after breakfast to check in on their drinkware selection. If you’re coming from a Weisswurst breakfast, it’s early enough to avoid the crowds at “the world’s most famous tavern.”

Traditional Weisswurst breakfast (Weisswurstfrühstück) at Schneider’s Weisses Bräuhaus im Tal including weisswurst, a pretzel and a Weissbier in a proper weizen glass.

A Dunkel beer at Hofbräuhaus in Munich, served in a half liter Isar mug.

My half-liter Dunkel arrived in an Isar mug. The dimpled glass mug widely associated with Oktoberfest (though typically in one-liter format at that event) is named after the river that cuts through the city. Though this is also not my favorite vessel, I was very content to have it in the place where it got its name.

Finally, a highlight of the visit was a stop at the Beer and Oktoberfest Museum. The museum is an excellent short stop for beer nerds visiting the city, and it’s packed with tons of informative, fascinating bits of drinkware history, among other things.

Here are some of my favorite parts of the collection:

Interactive display at the the Beer and Oktoberfest Museum.

Top image is a screenshot from the Beer and Oktoberfest Museum describing the Tübinger Igel mug, followed by two examples. The mug’s texture is hedgehog like (Igel meaning hedgehog). Modern Tübinger mugs are called Tübinger Kugel, with Kugel referring to the dimples. Note the billy goat drinking from a pokal glass on the lid (though, not all Igel mugs had this style lid.)

On the left: Three stone mugs depicting the brewer’s star, a symbol of protection used in ancient times and believed to help ensure a good brew. Also later used by zoigl houses to indicate that beer was available for the public. In the middle: A variety of porcelain and pewter beer mug lids. On the right: the Queen of Hops, a porcelain and pewter, hand-painted mug.

That’s it for Bavaria. Next stop, the Czech Republic as a few folks DM’d me about the new Budvar/Baladin Teku mugs that were released by Rastal while I was away. I was originally going to include some thoughts on that here, but I’m going to save it for another brief post on Czech drinkware.

Purely by coincidence, I was able to check out Starkbierfest (Strong Beer Fest) in Munich on my way to my brother’s 50th birthday celebration in Austria. The lesser-known Munich beer fest takes place during Lent when brewers supply hearty Doppelbock beer to fasting monks, giving them sustenance to make it through the day. They call this time of year “Starkbierzeit”, meaning strong beer season.

There’s a good argument to be made that it’s better than Oktoberfest. And it’s one example of Munich beer culture that doesn’t immediately come to mind when outsiders think of the infamous beer-loving city.

Starkbierzeit has been on my radar for a while, and I had heard of a couple of other beer-related things that I wanted to check out in Munich. Things that you’re not going to find in a guidebook. With just over twenty-four hours to myself, I took the opportunity to explore them all. Liver be damned.

The Stehausschank at Nürnberger Bratwurst Gloeckl am Dom. Note the bell next to the window.

My first opportunity came up after lunch at Nuernberger Bratwurst Gloeckl am Dom. Many know of this restaurant’s succulent little sausages and the tip-top pours of Augustiner, but tucked away by an ancillary entrance to the restaurant is a nearly extinct Munich beer tradition.

The restaurant has a separate standing bar, known as a “Stehausschank”. The small, austere space is designed for a quick beer. So, there’s no seating or any other type of feature meant to accommodate someone for a lenghty period of time.

The austerity is by design. It’s also part of its charm and what makes it unique.

There’s a buzz to the space from the window that serves customers of the Stehausschank and the restaurant, to the hustle of the Munich street life just outside the door. Patrons and restaurant employees regularly come and go, but the beer’s impeccability grounds you. Specifically the Augustiner Helles vom fass (from the barrel). It locks you in, making you impermeable to any potential distraction.

In addition to the Helles, the day I was there, they were also serving Augustiner’s Dunkel, Edelstoff, and Weissbier.

Aside from the beer window, other notable features are a cigarette vending machine and a bell on the wall. Don’t ring it. If you do, you have to buy everyone a round. The good news is that if you make this mistake, the space can’t accommodate many people.

Giesinger Bräu - Stehausschank Viktualienmarkt.

Local brewery Giesinger has opened several establishments around the city that they call Stehausschank. The experience is a modern interpretation of the tradition. They are casual, beer-focused bars, and they give a nod to the tradition seen at Bratwurst Gloeckl. However, they have some seating and definitely feel more inviting like a traditional drinking establishment that welcomes a few rounds as opposed to a quick one on the go.

Giesinger has several Stehausschank locations in town, including one across from the open-air market Viktualienmarkt, which was where I went. There were no chairs or stools inside, but the walls include seating that can be folded down if customers want them. There were a few small tables too.

The lager heavy menu was varied, but included a Red Ale and a Triple. I had an excellent Schankbier (it was served in a Teku glass, and I’m saving my comments on that for another post.)

Just a few doors down from this spot is Zum Stiftl Stehausschank. As nice as this place was, including the small door behind the bar where wooden kegs of Augustiner are loaded up for tapping, it was even less of a Stehausschank than the Giesinger spot I visited. Trying to exercise some restraint, I opted for an excellent NA Augustiner Hell here.

There were several other “Stehausschank” I saw around town, but none of them seemed to be a proper “standing bar”. They all look like great places for a drink, but if they’re going to use that name, it would be great to see them embrace the tradition a bit more. Or, just call it something else.

The Le Clou Boazn in Munich.

Far from the kitschy beer halls of Munich, Boazn are small, unpretentious pubs that, as with the Stehausschank, cater to locals. One might even call them dive bars.

Located in the center of town, Le Clou was the first Boazn I visited. It’s a great, compact bar with dedicated regulars, despite its touristy location. Several beers are available, but my hunch is that Augustiner is the drink of choice with Le Clou’s patrons. Staff and regulars were friendly, and readily willing to chat. As I told them I was heading to Starkbierfest later in the evening, they warned me about the strength of the beer.

The second one I visited is called Flaschenöffner, and it’s just outside the old town in the Gärtnerplatzviertel neighborhood. Flaschenöffner is a bit divier than Le Clou, which is in no way meant to be an insult. It’s a great spot. One I could see myself frequenting if I lived in the area.

As it was a Monday night, it was a little quiet. But there were small groups of people enjoying themselves over a few drinks, and it had a good vibe. The beer list was a good mix of local and traditional, as well as more contemporary styles and regional beers too. I opted for a skunked bottle of Budvar. It somehow tasted right in the moment.

Switching gears, Starkbierfest is a great opportunity to experience the romantic elements of Oktoberfest (beers by the liter, people dressed in Trachten (i.e. dirndls and lederhosen) dancing on tables, etc.) without having to deal with the mobs of tourists.

Instead of the festivities taking place at the infamous Theresienwiese (Therese's Meadow) fairground, where Oktoberfest occurs, breweries celebrate Starkbierzeit at their varying locations around town.

Paulaner is thought to be the first to make Doppelbock, and the Starkbierzeit festivities at their Nockherberg location are viewed by many as the place to be. So, that’s where I went.

Though outdoor space is available, the party is really inside with an expansive amout of tables and a stage for live music. I felt a little like an outsider in the more sparsely populated area of venue with unreserved tables, but I didn’t feel alone.

Before getting too festive, I ate Schweinsbraten (crispy roast pork) with a jus and Kartoffelknodel (potato dumplings). It’s a good dish to pair with Paulaner’s Doppelbock called “Salvator”. The food was good. Nothing to write home about. But the beer was great. It’s not a style I gravitate to often due to its sweetness and high ABV (theirs weighs in at 7.9-percent), but I do enjoy it. And I really enjoyed it in a stein at a fest where the particular beer itself is celebrated. It’s strength gave me liquid courage stand on my bench, sing, and hoist my beer in the air.

Starkbierfest at Paulaner am Nocherberg.

I was blown away by the amount of people there oozing Gemütlichkeit on a Monday night in early March. Despite being alone, I could’ve stayed longer, but it had been a long day of drinking beyond just Starkbierfest. So, I listened to the warnings received by the locals and strolled home on an incredibly pleasant evening, with an incredibly pleasant buzz. I walked away with a greater appreciation of Munich’s beer culture, which is more dynamic and interesting than how it’s typically portrayed.

(For deeper dives on Munich, check out the blog A Tempest and a Tankard by Franz D. Hofer, including a recent post on Starkbierzeit. Also, if you’re into Boazn, give the boaznengel3000 Instagram account a follow. Finally, there’s a very handy map, Münchner BOAZNRADAR, that’s worth exploring, especially if you’re heading to Munich.)