An earlier post had me flipping through an old book that brings up memories that are a bit nostalgic now. And though I’ve had Michael Jackson’s Great Beer Guide for around twenty years, it still fascinates me. I thought it would be fun to share some of my favorite drinkware from the book.   

Published in 2000, the Great Beer Guide is a fantastic book and offers a nice snapshot of what the beer world was like at the time. It does this by offering a brief overview of 500 beers from around the world.

While many think of the United States beer culture as still being in the dark ages in the year 2000, there’s an impressive number of beers from the States represented in the book. Though Jackson may have been a bit polite in some cases, there are many that are or were, excellent.

In addition to the 500 brews, the book also provides some other thoughts about beer that he explores in greater detail in some of his other works like Ultimate Beer. This sharing of similar content may be because both of these books in particular were published by DK.

Though there are many iconic vessels in the book that I appreciate (Tripel Karmeliet, for example), I decided to share some less obvious examples here.

Enough of the background. Here they are.

Berliner Bürgerbräu and Dock Street

With their colored handles, these glasses give a little flair to glassware that you don’t find these days in the beer world. Though there are very slight differences, these two are incredibly similar in shape, which is also something I appreciate.  

Jackson explains that in the case of Bürgerbräu, the red handle was used for their Export lager, and customers would order a “robin redbreast” (Rotkehlchen, in German, which is actually the name of this particular beer.)

It would be cool to see breweries/manufacturers experimenting with colored glassware again. Perhaps gold or silver handles with a matching rim.

Fraoch And Grozet

Though these are not my favorite looking vessels, I greatly appreciate the use of materials (ceramic and leather) and forms that were in widespread use before the proliferation of glass. Outside of Bavaria, few beer drinking cultures were still using non-glass drinking vessels once glass became cheap and readily available.

Both of these brands are produced by Williams Bros. Brewing Company in Scotland (Alba Scots Pine Ale is another beer of theirs featured in the book.)

Fullers and Jennings

These mugs have a presence that are at the same time sophisticated and substantial. They just seem to command respect. Though the lack of curvature is not ideal, there’s something about them that draws me in.

Guinness

There’s nothing wrong with the classic tulip Guinness pint glass, but this stout pokal/goblet is a bit cooler looking and is a little more unique, which an iconic beer deserves. Guinness still sells a glass in a similar design, but I like the one in Jackson’s book better.

Hoepfner

I like the artwork on this glass and also the nonic-ish bump.

Königsbacher

Having a first and last name beginning with a K, I’m drawn in by this glass’ K stem. It’s surprising we don’t see stuff like this more often.

Mitchell’s

I don’t know why, but I was always fascinated by these plastic bottles in my early years of beer nerdom. And yes, this post is about drinkware, but I feel this is worth mentioning here.

I always kept an eye out for these bottles not realizing that there was zero chance of me ever finding them in a store where I lived. Though that’s the main reason I’m mentioning Mitchell’s, the branded glassware depicted with the beer is very nice.

Okocim

This Polish beer is depicted with the book’s only Tübinger. Not just any old Tübinger, but one with a lid (called a Zinndeckel in German). Not sure we need more of these, but still pretty cool.

St. Georgen Bräu

I’m admittedly a sucker for St. Georgen Bräu, and I love drinking it out of a stein in particular.  In this case, the shape and artwork all click for me. I’d love to get my hands on one of these.

Other observationS From the book

-        Black Sheep of the UK and Domus of Belgium have beers depicted in Weizen glasses.

-        The book is short on dimple mugs, particularly the Czech-style Tübinger (there’s just the Okocim) and British Dimple pots (there are none).

-        Despite the American notion that nonics are the ubiquitous UK beer glass, there are very few in the book. They include Fuller’s (for a different beer than above) and Woodforde (though there are a couple other nonics that are unbranded).

 Most UK/Irish glasses are presented in tulip pints and shakers (aka, conicals.) This includes Adnams, Bank’s, Beamish, Cobbold, Greene King, Murphy’s, Pitfields, Sam Smiths, and Ushers for the former, and Bass, Batemans, Cain’s, Caledonian (Scotland), Charles Wells, Eldridge Pope, Highgate & Walsall, Hopback, King and Barnes, Marston’s, Shepherd Neame, Youngs for the latter.

 -        Of course, a significant number of US breweries are presented in shakers including the following: Alaskan, Anchor, Bert Grants, Fish Tale Ales, Geary’s, Great Lakes, Hale’s, Independence, Magic Hat, North Coast, Odell, Oliver, Portland, Pyramid, Red Hook, Rogue, Sierra Nevada, Southampton, and Tabernash.

 -        Malt Shovel from Australia is in a shaker as is Haecht from Belgium. Though it may seem odd for a Belgian brewery to be featured in a shaker, it is classed up with a gold rim.

-        There are a good amount of pokals in the book, including Ayinger, Bacchus, Bitburger, and Harvey’s.

 -        There are also lots of Willibechers, including Alfa and Brand from the Netherlands, Cristal from Belgium, Flatlanders, Gordon Biersch and Penn from the US, and Gambrinus from Czechia.

I’m curious what a 2023 edition of this book would look like. Probably a lot more British and Czech-style dimple mugs, Tekus, and snifter/tulip style glasses. What are some of your favorite examples of brewery drinkware past or present?  

The shaker pint and the Teku are two of the most despised beer glasses, and besides both being glass vessels used for drinking, they have nearly nothing in common. One is an incredibly basic shape; a conical tumbler that has been around forever for all kinds of uses. The other is a modern creation. An angular, stemmed glass made specifically for beer.

Neither are worthy of much loathing (I mean, they’re just glasses, people), yet beer nerds have very strong opinions on them. I find them interesting as they are so different, and, at the same time, so debated in the contemporary beer world. (I think. Probably. Right? Is this just my perception? Probably the shaker more than the Teku.)

Shakers have been part of beer culture for much longer than Tekus. Some are better than others due to their manufacturing. Countless breweries in the United States have used them. Many breweries that sell/use more interesting glassware will still sell/use shaker pints.

The term “pints” is used loosely here. They can come in varying sizes, which is part of the reason some don’t care for it. The unpredictability of what a “pint” is when you order one. That’s a matter that is formally regulated in other beer-drinking cultures.

Do they add much to your drinking experience? No, not really. But do they really detract to the level that they deserve the hatred they receive? No, not really. Knocking others for using them is a little gatekeepy. I was probably like this at one point. I also shunned Nirvana when I was a kid because they were on a major label. I grew up. Shaker haters can too. They’re not that bad.

Some of the criticisms are that they lack features that elevate the drinking experience (aroma, e.g.) and that their thick composition creates issues with temperature. An argument is that the thicker glass retains the heat from one’s hand more so than thinner glass. This assumes people hold their beer the entire time they drink it and will cradle the beer long enough for this to become an issue.  

Tekus were created in 2006 in Italy and are produced by the German glassware company Rastal. Technically, the name is spelled TeKu, representing the names of the two creators, Teo Musso and Lorenzo “Kuaska” Dabove. Musso is the brewer/owner of the Italian brewery Birra Baladin.

The websites for both Rastal and Baladin include fluffy language about how great the Teku glass is. It’s pretty. It has a modern look and works well if you like/want a stemmed glass. I like that it was specifically designed for beer and the way the curve at the top hugs the lip. Beyond that, I don’t think there are any major differences between it and most other stemmed beer/wine glasses with a decent bowl shape. This may be the reason why others gripe about it. Is it really necessary? The main complaint people seem to have about the Teku is its shape, which many people find a bit pompous, or simply unattactive.

Some of the content in this table might appear a little contradictory. But I suppose it’s possible that, for example, the Teku can be elegant and showy at the same time. Likewise, the shaker has a simple design that can be beneficial and dull at the same time. Yes, it’s basic, but sometimes basic is cool too. Tekus may help concentrate aroma, but if you have an already aromatic beer, you will still get a great sense of that if you hover your beak over a shaker.

This post is by no means a call for beer bars to start making use of either of these glasses. There are plenty of other options that are better suited for most. But if a beer bar were to use a shaker pint, it’s worthwhile to invest in a quality product. For example, Rastal makes Tekus, but they also offer a variety of shaker-style glasses that are high quality.

And just like all other glassware, once you’ve made the investment, you need to properly care for it even if it’s a shaker (i.e. no stacking, properly cleaning, etc.) Most importantly, as a customer, try not to let glassware style preferences get you bent out of shape when you’re served a beer. If you can put your feelings aside, there’s a pretty good chance you can still enjoy your beer no matter what the glass is. With all the challenges we face in life, glassware styles are something to enjoy and celebrate, but never something that should cause an uptick in our blood pressure. Except for those goddamn cheap UK-style dimple mugs everyone uses for lager.

A pint of cask Bitter in a nonic is the first thing that pops up in my head when I think of British beer. Yet this image doesn’t align with their beer culture these days as neither the beer style nor glass are particularly popular. While it might be easy to lament their decline, especially for Bitter, the British beer scene is incredibly vibrant right now. This will be explored in detail in Matthew Curtis’ forthcoming book, Modern British Beer.

Modern British Beer book cover. Image source: CAMRA.

A recently announced promotion for the book caught my attention due to the glass it included. It’s essentially a stemmed Pilsner glass. According to the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA), publishers of the book, “it is a glass that’s accessible for a wide range of beer drinkers.”

A tasting glass sold with a special offer from CAMRA for the book. Image source: CAMRA.

CAMRA has made great progress lately in promoting tradition while recognizing the need to incorporate contemporary trends. It’s the organization’s traditional component that had me assume they advocate for the use of dimple mugs and nonics, perhaps even the tulip glass often associated with Guinness. These are the glasses that Cicerone identifies in its glassware guide as British and Irish glassware styles. However, they are not commonplace in contemporary use, and neither are the styles of beer traditionally associated with those glasses (with the exception of the beers from Guinness).

From Cicerone’s Guide to Beer Glassware. The depiction is not quite consistent with modern British beer drinking culture.

Some changes were taking place in the pre-modern British beer era that impacted the glassware styles that were/are used. Before the craft beer revolution took hold of England, the growth of lager sales had been the most notable change to the domestic beer culture. This is now the overwhelming majority of beer consumed in the country. It’s growth brought different drinking vessels. Around the same time (and perhaps because of this, at least in part), glassware manufacturers in the country known for making some of the iconic domestic beer glass styles were closing down.

Since its inception, part of CAMRA’s mission has been to promote the proper serving of real ale. To them, a specific glass style isn’t crucial to enjoying a good pint. Accordingly, the organization generally doesn’t advocate for a particular shape.

CAMRA celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. In honor of the occasion, it released a commemorative glass. Its shape is the one that’s most common these days. The straight glass (aka straight-sided, conical, or shaker pint) is ubiquitous in the United Kingdom. Despite the negative connotation it has here in the US craft beer scene, it’s generally embraced in the UK.

CAMRA’s 50th Anniversary souvenir glass. Image source: CAMRA.

The straight glass is not new to UK beer drinkers. Beer writer Martyn Cornell identifies its use going back at least as far as the 1920s and 30s when it was referred to as a tumbler. Countless breweries have used it over the years, including Adnams, Batemans, Black Sheep, Fuller’s and Marston’s. A wealth of younger ones like Southwark, Verdant and Deya use them as well. However, this younger generation of breweries will often have more elegant glassware offerings as well.

Modern British glassware offerings from Southwark, Verdant and Deya. Image sources from the preceding links.

Given its ubiquity and general embrace, it’s not surprising then that the glass image on the cover of Curtis’ book is the straight glass. It’s the “great leveler”, according to him. Versatile and inclusive. CAMRA’s Alex Metcalfe notes a similar sentiment, stating “the cover is an homage to the diversity and inclusion in the modern British beer scene.” As far as the book’s contents, he notes “for the most part, the container is not the central issue for us. Sensory experience, good company and exploring modern British beer culture are all at the core of Modern British Beer.”

Curtis explains it’s important to keep beer accessible and to suggest a particular glass must be used for a certain beer, potentially forcing consumers to spend more to enjoy it, can contribute to gatekeeping. While consumers don’t need to use a straight glass to feel that they’re egalitarian, those that do not have a selection of Teku’s to enjoy their hazy IPA should not be disenfranchised either.

To CAMRA, the straight glass imagery on the cover is important, as Metcalfe puts it, because it “is a kind of universal emblem that’s recognisable from many beer drinking contexts, locations, and cultures. Considering the transatlantic exchange of influences within beer culture and brewing over the last 50 years it is particularly relevant to the themes explored within Modern British Beer.” He adds “it is a definitive move away from the tankard in that the associations with a tankard are perhaps heavily weighted - this is a light touch approach from us, indicative of a wider feeling that it really it is up to the reader to choose their glassware.”

Sheffield brewery Saint Mars of the Desert is a wonderful representation of the modern British beer scene. The primary vessel they use to serve their beer is a stemmed tulip-like glass. They also use a Willi Becher and a dimple mug. This is a fitting, well-rounded selection. That said, brewer and owner Dann Paquette says that if he goes out to a pub and orders a pint of Bitter, he’s “hoping for the nonic glass or the old man dimple mug.”

Saint Mars of the Desert’s glassware selection strikes a perfect balance to serve patrons their varying styles of beer. Image source: Saint Mars of the Desert.

For Five Points Brewing Company in London, glassware is an “advertiser and an amplifier”, as Ed Davy from the brewery notes. It’s no secret that glassware offers a wonderful opportunity to advertise a brand. He elaborates, “in its simplest form, this just puts a logo in the customer’s hand; at its most advanced, I’ve seen breweries put QR codes on their glasses that link to tasting notes, promotional giveaways or an info-page about the brewery. Branded glassware is one of the most immediate and direct ways of establishing a relationship with the customer and informing them about the beer they’re drinking.”

Regarding amplification, Davy says “well-designed glass can improve the drinking experience by intensifying existing elements of the drink.” While different styles of glassware can amplify in different ways, he adds “you can create feelings of nostalgia by serving cask ale in ‘traditional’ dimpled jugs”, and this is something the brewery does at its taproom for its cask beer. To be most efficient with space at their pub, The Pembury Tavern, the straight glass is used. For kegged beer, they use a Willi Becher.

London’s Five Points Brewing Company is known for being a contemporary brewery keeping many of the traditional British beer styles alive. This doesn’t prevent them from making use of a variety of glassware styles. Image sources: Five Points Brewing Company.

Metcalfe mentions he understands that for some, the dimple mug is “prime Instagram fodder”. He suspects this may be because “it’s mostly the exception to the rule and now a nostalgic novelty.” That said, anyone paying attention to Five Points’ social media accounts will likely attest to how the brewery has been able to successfully leverage this nostalgia with the mug.

A tulip glass would be ideal for Davy in an everyday pub, but he’s not too picky, as long as it’s clean. However, things are different in his local pub. “All that goes out the window. I don’t care about the glass style, I don’t even want glass - I want my pewter tankard, which lives behind the bar.” Talk about nostalgia.

Curtis is a bit like me when it comes to glassware. Ambivalent about what others do, but a little picky with personal consumption. Also like me, he gravitates toward the Willi Becher.

Despite romantic notions of older glassware styles that people like myself may have, British beer drinkers have moved on to other vessels. And that’s probably a good thing. If I’m being honest, glasses like the nonic and dimple aren’t great. The craft beer scene in England is thriving and dynamic, and the glassware that’s accompanying it has changed for the better.

CAMRA will be launching a new online beer style resource soon. Examples were photographed by Nicci Peet in a mix of contemporary and traditional glassware. Keep an eye out for that, as well as Curtis’ book, which is being released on August 12th. Those in the United States can order the book through Waterstones. It’s highly recommended. I will be doing a write-up on it for PorchDrinking.com.

Note: for further reading on the history of beer drinkware in England, I suggest the above referred to Zythophile blog post ‘More notes towards a history of the beer mug’ and the book Pub Beer Mugs and Glasses by Hugh Rock. Also, if you’re interested in the history of the nonic, a glass with US origins, see a prior post here.