Radeberger Zwickelbier: Using Rhetoric to Sell Humble Beer

Radeberger’s recent canned release of their Pilsner Zwickelbier has a notable element on its packaging. The word “hazy”, which is almost exclusively applied to New England IPA, is prominently depicted. While that’s a little cringe-worthy, something like this was probably inevitable. People have been making similar references for a few years now. It’s also unlikely to resonate with the intended audience.

The press release seems to make clear that this is an attempt to connect with modern, young consumers. It even claims the beer is “deliciously juicy” (spoiler: it’s delicious, not juicy). It offers a sheepish recognition that the Reinheitsgebot doesn’t allow Oreos in a beer. But fear not lactose lovers, “despite these ingredient limitations, Germany is known for its exceptional beers and innovative taste profiles.” They should have just omitted any reference to the purity law.

Radeberger has been making one beer for a long time, and that’s staying the same. This beer is simply an unfiltered version of their classic Pilsner. It was previously available at the brewery only and on a few select occasions elsewhere.

It’s a Zwickelbier, and that term is often affiliated with Franconian beer culture (Radeberger is located in Bavaria’s neighboring state Saxony). Similar terms include Kellerbier and, to a lesser extent, Landbier, and I wrote a little bit about these in a recent beer showcase on PorchDrinking.com.

Zwickel, sometimes Zwickl, refers to a spout on a lagering tank that brewers draw beer from to sample before filtration. Accordingly, the beer may not be as bright as the brewer intends the finished product to be. That doesn’t mean it won’t be tasty.

Hazy and juicy are the nomenclature of a different beer culture from the typical Radeberger customer. Its use may make a few highly uninformed consumers pick up a can or two. However, while using the hip terminology, they will likely fail to connect to those that are attracted to these terms. There a several reasons for this, including the fact that it’s German, it’s lager, it’s not a sticker can and its price point is not aligned with what the hazy crowd is accustomed to. All of these points will send signals to trend-following consumers that this beer is not for them. They speak to me though; an anomaly in the craft beer market.

It’s a somewhat sad occasion as this is, as they say, their “first product innovation in nearly 150 years.” And it’s a great one. As I mentioned, the beer is delicious. Good for them for releasing this. It’s just that the packing and marketing are unfortunate, and I suspect will not achieve the goals they have in mind. I would’ve found this much more appealing if they demonstrated a bit of humor and used “HÄZY” instead. Maybe they thought it was humorous without the umlaut. German humor is often lost on us Americans. #LageristLeben