Bonn Place Brewing owner Sam Masotto decked out as Krampus and overlooking Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, ready to visit misbehaving patrons at his brewery. Source: Bonn Place Brewing.

If you’ve ever been to a brewery taproom and stolen glassware, left your obnoxious kids unattended, or asked for countless samples before buying a beer, your day of reckoning may be here. It’s Krampus season, and Krampus is popping up at more and more breweries around the US, ready to unleash ruthless punishment for all naughty patrons.

The Krampus tradition comes from European communities centered around the Alps (notably in Austria) and features a frightening mythical figure that is a counterpart to St. Nicholas. While St. Nicholas gives treats to children, Krampus punishes them for bad behavior. One form of punishment is a brutal beating with a bundle of birch sticks known as Ruten. Worse than that, one might be thrown in a sack and taken away forever. I’m not sure exactly where you will be taken. Probably Hell. Who knows? Maybe Mar-a-Lago.

Krampus’ appearance is characterized by goat-like horns, a long tongue, furry body, and hooves. The creature may also wear chains and bells. It’s not terribly unlike me in my late teens. I bet Krampus smells better though.

St. Nicholas and Krampus visiting a family. Source: the internet.

During the holiday season, Krampus begins to appear in Europe around December 5th, which is the eve of St. Nicholas' Day. This is the official Krampusnacht, or Krampus Night. Each year around this time, there are parades called Krampuslauf, or Krampus run, where people dress up like Krampus, some wearing ornately carved wooden masks, and they march through town beating drums. As it should be, the spectacle is entertaining for some and frightening for others.

Closer to home, more and more breweries are holding their own Krampus events in December. In a shock to no one who knows him, Bonn Place Brewing owner Sam Masotto has donned his very own Krampus costume for the event, which they have been celebrating since 2016.

St. Nicholas serves Krampus a beer in the Bonn Place taproom. Source: Bonn Place Brewing.

Bonn will be celebrating this year on December 5th and 6th with food, music, and beer, of course. And though Sam may dress like Krampus, he’s actually more like St. Nicholas. He uses the event to think of others and includes a clothing and coat drive.

Notch Brewing will be in the charitable spirit as well this year for a Krampus event at their Brighton location on December 14th. In addition to several other forms of revelry, they will be collecting toys and gifts for donation. The festivities will also include a Krampuslauf, a Krampus costume competition, and Krampus-themed holiday card making (Krampuskarten.)

Greetings from Bonn Place. Source: Bonn Place Brewing.

Greetings from Krampus. Left image source. Right image source.

In addition to Bonn and Notch, many other American breweries are making Krampus part of their regular holiday festivities. Sacred Profane in Biddeford, Maine, Live Oak Brewing in Austin, Texas, and Wild East Brewing in Brooklyn, New York, just to name a few.    

These celebrations are a relatively recent tradition in the US, and it’s one that presents lots of opportunity. I have some thoughts.

I firmly believe Krampusnacht could be the kickoff to an extended Starkbierzeit. Starkbierzeit is the strong beer season celebrated in Munich during Lent. To me, the perfect beverage for Krampus festivities is a strong and dark lager like Doppelbock. The strength and flavor are perfect for a cold December night. The fact that there’s goat imagery related to Bock beer and Krampus helps solidify this pairing.

A strong beer getting a hot poke in a stein from a bierstacheln at a Notch Brewing Starkbierzeit (strong beer season festival). Source: Notch Brewing.

Celebrations should include fires not only for ambiance, but also to heat metal rods in the bierstacheln tradition, where they’re used to warm a cold beer and nicely caramelize some residual sugars in the malty brews. And forget birch sticks for punishment. The scalding rods can also be used by Krampus to brand some jerk that uses British-style dimple mugs for lager.

As is the case for Starkbierzeit, a proper stein should be used. And not just for drinking. Pound the beer and smash that thing over the head of someone who calls a glass mug a stein.

Let the punishment begin!!!

Among all the callers who have tried to win 105.3 The Shark’s call-in radio contests, Brienne Allan may have been the most persistent. It helped pass the time on her commute to Notch Brewing in Salem, Massachusetts where she up until recently worked as Production Manager. Perhaps more importantly, she also figured winning the jackpot would alleviate the cost of her 90-minute commute from Maine.

Even with 9,000 breweries operating in the United States, job openings for brewers are few. As a result, many brewers like Allan endure an onerous commute with hidden costs of time and money, chipping away at the industry’s already modest salaries.

While it’s easy to overlook staff lives outside of work, it’s in an employer’s best interests to consider how the job impacts people when they’re off the clock. This includes commutes, the activity employees do right before they get to work. There is no one-size-fits all solution, but tools are available to avoid or mitigate the negative impacts that arise from commuting. Communication is the key element to successful initiatives.

Getting on the Road

Allan, who brought forth the #MeToo reckoning in the beer world earlier this year, made the unfortunate decision to purchase a Fiat several years back. When she bought the car, she was living in Boston and had a short commute to her old job. It was practical then, especially for parking. Shortly after that, she began working at Notch. While they appear close on the map, the commute from Boston to Salem can be challenging. She then moved to Worcester for a while, which was an hour and change.

Brienne Allan, brewer, previously with Notch Brewing in Salem, MA.

It’s not an ideal vehicle for a long commute in New England. Since she’s owned it, she’s had to constantly replace the pricey tires, spending thousands of dollars in addition to gas, tolls and other maintenance.

When Allan and her fiancé discussed where to buy a home, they settled on the Portland area. It’s about two hours from Salem, one way, depending on traffic. Though there are some breweries in the region where she likely could have found a job, it would’ve been hard for her to walk away from Notch. She connected in many ways with the brewery’s operation, culture, and focus on traditional lagers. It’s incredibly difficult to leave that environment, especially after seeing the voluminous stories of sexism, harassment and assault in the industry that were revealed after she ignited the reckoning.

Short- and Long-Term Living at/near work

Allan’s fiancé was understanding of the challenges she faced due to her commute. With over sixteen years in the business, Mike Fava knows the industry well. He was most recently the head brewer at Oxbow Brewing in Maine, where he worked for nine years.

Oxbow’s original location in Newcastle is remote, and the brewery offers its guest house for staff if they need a place to sleep. It has turned out to be very helpful as employees often live a notable distance away in more populated areas.

On occasion, Fava took advantage of this accommodation. Looking back on his old commute from Portland, he says “it is a beautiful drive. It’s coastal Maine, but doing it five days a week is tough. Instead of spending all that time in the car, I’d rather work a little longer, crash overnight, wake up the next day and get the work done.”

Mike Fava, brewer, previously with Oxbow Brewing Co. in Newcastle, ME.

Providing lodging, short- or long-term, can be mutually beneficial. There are financial benefits for employees by cutting commuting costs. Eliminating trips also results in a smaller carbon footprint. It can create greater reliability and consistency with efficiencies in personal lives and brewery operations. It can also help foster team building.

It can have its downsides on a long-term basis though. Barry Labendz, co-founder and general manager of Kent Falls Brewing in Connecticut, lived at his brewery for several years. He found being on-site meant it was much easier to get sucked into work during his off-hours.  Allan had a similar experience when at one time she lived across the street from Notch. “I ended up being there 24/7, and that’s not healthy,” she says.

These situations may be employer/management derived (e.g a late-night call asking a brewer to run into the brewhouse to make sure a valve is shut.) However, sometimes working unpaid, unscheduled hours just happens. For Allan, she would pop in for a quick temperature check, and then suddenly several hours had passed. Reflecting on his days off when he lived at his brewery, Labendz recalls periodically seeing employees being swamped. It was difficult to just sit nearby relaxing knowing he could pitch in. So he did.

He now drives an hour to get to the brewery, and says “frankly, I love it…It gives me an hour to think about work early in the morning going in, and an hour to kind of think out of work while I’m leaving.” He uses the time to listen to podcasts and catch up with family and friends, which seems harder at other times of the day.

Barry Labendz, co-founder and general manager of Kent Falls Brewing, Kent, CT.

Even though Labendz enjoys his daily trip, he recognizes that he is an owner and has a different stake in the business. The fact that the brewery’s isolated location and corresponding commute can be taxing for his staff is not lost on him. Conversations with staff and cognizance of their commutes have informed the way they operate their brewery.   

Flexible Work Schedules

Kent Falls has essentially eliminated double brew days. Staff and management agree that sending workers home with a substantial drive through rural Connecticut is not ideal after a long day of work. This flexibility is important. Instead squeezing as much out of employees as they can, the brewery follows a more considerate path.

When Oxbow opened up a second facility in Portland, where Fava lived, his commuting experience improved as he was able to spend more workdays closer to home. However, the well-being of the brewery’s staff without this luxury remained on his mind, knowing how extended periods on the road mean less downtime in their lives. Less time with family and friends.

Under his management, production staff at the brewery decided together to make the workweek four ten-hour days (aka, a 4/10). Fava and others interviewed here, as well as research and trials in the public and private sectors, note the benefits of a 4/10 work week, which includes greater productivity and employee satisfaction. It results in less commute time overall each week. It also reduces financial burdens due to gas and wear and tear on a car.   

At Industrial Arts Brewing Company, Head Brewer Jess Reaves has discussed the idea of a 4/10 week with his staff. He sees the benefits and is on board if the employees choose it, but he notes “I'm also looking at other perspectives regarding the functionality of the brewery (are people as effective, work-wise, from hours 8-10?) and safety of the team (will people get tired and make mistakes, which can easily result in injury or loss of product).”

He adds, “safety, for me, is the biggest take-away. Ensuring that folks can get to work safely, be alert and present while there, then get home at a decent time (again, safely) is paramount. Even if an employee is enthusiastic about the job and committed to making the commute work, a tired employee is not safe. Between pumps, chemicals, heat, pressure, wet floors, and machinery...” Yeah, it’s a lot to be concerned about.

Jess Reaves, Head Brewer at Industrial Arts Brewing Company, Garnerville, NY.

Some breweries will find that not all staff want to work longer days. Further, a 4/10 may cause tension if there are certain segments of an organization that cannot have flexibility. Communication is critical. 

Industrial Arts starts the conversation before an employee begins working for the brewery. Commutes come up during the interview process, particularly when an applicant lives a substantial distance from the facility. Reaves says “just because an applicant is driven and wants the job, that doesn’t mean a long commute will be sustainable in the long run.” The dialogue helps keep everyone on the same page from day one.

Dreux Dillingham at Métier Brewing in Woodinville, Washington has similar conversations with his staff. He has found that allowing different shift leads results in staff arriving in a better frame of mind. Better prepared for the day’s work because they were able to more efficiently commute at off-peak times. 

Métier Brewing’s General Manager and Production Manager Dreux Dillingham with CEO Rodney Hines.

Dillingham is the General Manager, Production Manager and partner at the brewery and certainly does not have a traditional commute. After several years and several moves, progressively getting further from the metropolitan Seattle area (where Métier is located) to find a good quality of life at an affordable price, he now lives 120 miles from the brewery in Grays Harbor County. To accommodate the distance, his role within the organization had to change. He now performs several of his duties remotely, commuting just a few days a week.

On the days he does commute, Dillingham will often listen to music. Occasionally he’ll call into a meeting. Sometimes, though, he simply tries to enjoy the silence.

Opening new facilities/changing place of employment

As he’s no stranger to a tough commute, and understanding of its detriments, Dillingham has been discussing the opening of a second facility with his staff since early on in the process to determine how to make it work. Employers must be clear upfront about where a job will be located, and understanding that employees often consider that information when seeking a job. Conversations with staff are important if a new facility’s location will impact them, especially if there’s the possibility for a longer commute.

Métier recently announced its newest facility will be in partnership with the Seattle Mariners. It’s named “Steelhead’s Alley” in honor of the 1946 Negro league baseball team the Seattle Steelheads. The facility will be a brewery, taproom and event space. And they’re not stopping there. The brewery is currently looking for another production facility location in Seattle.

Back in the northeast, while Allan was aware early on of Notch’s plans to expand, and understanding of why it ultimately landed in Boston, it was a big concern for her. It added forty-five minutes to her commute, ironically, back to the city where she lived when she bought her Fiat. On top of the longer distance, the new facility is only brewing Czech lager, and as she says “a Czech lager day can be anywhere from ten hours to sixteen hours depending on how many decoctions it is.” Notch founder and Head Brewer Chris Lohring recognizes this, saying “yeah, if you’re brewing Czech lager, you want to live close.”

The reality is few have the luxury of an ideal commute and an ideal job. Accordingly, employers and employees should work together to make the situation the best it can be. This is what Lohring and his staff have done at Notch. With two facilities now, he’s happy to assign staff where it’s convenient for them, to the extent possible. Lohring also provides flexibility by letting the production team set its schedule, which can allow for commutes at off-peak times.

Recognizing the burdens of the additional commute, Lohring makes efforts to help alleviate the impact. Speaking of brew days at the new facility in Boston, while she didn’t love the commute, Allan says “when you’re there, it’s so wonderful getting to share the experience and the knowledge with the other brewers, and just hanging out. Everyone gets lunch, everyone gets dinner, everyone gets a hotel room. He’s (Lohring) very accommodating to people’s time in that way.”

Commutes and Wellness

Breweries that genuinely care about their staff should consider the mental and physical health issues that a commute can cause. Exhaustion, stress, anxiety et. al. can all result. Aside from the personal toll this takes on an individual, it can lead to unproductive and dangerous work environments.

Communication, flexibility in work schedules and fostering wellness at and outside of work are some tools to mitigate these impacts. Often, changes can be made that meet staff needs and still allow the brewery to hit production targets.  Without making use of initiatives like these, breweries are more prone to staff burnout and turnover as suggested by several interviewed here.  

Fava says that after Oxbow implemented the 4/10 workweek, he noticed much more watercooler discussions by staff about the activities they do outside of work. Their personal lives seemed to improve, and it accordingly improved their well-being on the job. It became clear that having conversations with staff to understand their concerns and preferences on issues like this was so important to keeping them happy, and as a result, making them better employees.

Bolstering the quality of employee’s time off the clock, Oxbow got lower premiums for their insurance by offering staff a stipend if used for healthcare-related activities (e.g. gym memberships, ski passes, yoga classes). Financially, it’s nearly a wash for the brewery, but the benefits can be tremendous. Implementing a measure like this may require a little bit more effort on the admin side for a brewery, but again, those that truly care about their employees, and want to retain them, should be willing to do it.

Breweries that can provide lodging at or near a brewery need to be cognizant of the potential adverse impacts of those arrangements. First, parameters must be set to avoid inappropriate behavior. It must be clear what is and what is not acceptable. Having these identified can help everyone feel safe and welcome, and help if an employee needs to be terminated.

Beyond that, some of the issues that may arise will seem very familiar to those that have been thrust into a home/work environment since the onset of Covid-19. If the situation is not properly managed, with work and home life separated, it can be unhealthy.

Staff work hours should always be respected by management. Of course, an emergency can be an exception, but owners should otherwise not allow staff to pitch in during their off time. Further, brewery operations and staff housing should be physically separated as much as possible. People simply need quality downtime from work. Away from work.

Having experienced it himself, Labendz sees the challenges. He now finds that distancing himself from his brewery has several benefits. It allows him to be much more “present” when he’s at work, and when he’s home. He now lives with his significant other, and says “I’m not totally surprised that removing myself from living at the center of my work allowed me to be a better partner.”

Communication, Understanding and Leadership

Further acknowledging Lohring’s efforts to address burdens on his staff at Notch, Allan says “he’s very present in the struggle. He understands.” It’s not surprising as there can be a built-in appreciation of the challenges by ownership when they’re brewers too. As Lohring points out, non-brewer owned breweries have a “different mentality.”

This can show when discussing shift times and providing flexibility. Some operations may be less inclined to consider staff input. Fava says “I think those are some decisions that are certainly financially driven and growth-driven and come with the territory. I think there is a choice there.” 

This doesn’t mean all non-brewer owned companies are unwilling to listen and learn from their staff. Communication and education with management/ownership and staff should be a two-way street. That’s quite important for owners to recognize. As Allan says “we need leadership at breweries that make these rules and implement these policies on behalf of other people’s well-being, because if a company doesn’t know that they should be doing it, then they won’t.”

Career Building

As commutes come with costs and people often choose where they live based on housing prices, staff wages need to be part of these industry-wide conversations, particularly as employees gain experience and provide greater value to an organization.

It’s not uncommon for breweries to be located in unaffordable areas. Young brewers willing to live in less than ideal housing situations can often make it work early in their career to be close to work. Those getting older, and looking to settle down, will likely look for other arrangements. Without a significant salary increase, this means a need to either move further away from the expensive neighborhoods or find another career altogether.

Dillingham thinks a reassessment of how brewers are valued is needed. He notes, “we’ve come too far as an industry now over the last twenty or thirty years to say anymore that we’re just a motley crew of hourly workers and misfits…these are skilled professionals and people have to be seen and compensated that way.” To him, it’s worth it to pay people better, instead of treating them as disposable and just bringing on another young person. By doing so, brewers will be able to create a sustainable career, provide for their family, should they chose to have one, and create a better quality of life.

Almost Home

Fava recently left his job at Oxbow (at the time we initially spoke, he was still an employee and spoke freely). Since he was able to work a fair amount where he lived in Portland, his commute wasn’t necessarily a factor in his decision to leave. It was simply time for a change.  

These days, his average commute time is fourteen minutes by bike to Novare Res, the well-known beer bar in Portland, where he’s the general manager. He used to play rolodex roulette on his long rides, where he often was able to catch up with old friends. The downside of his new commute is not being able to talk to these folks as much anymore.

Not surprisingly, the commute from Maine proved to be too much for Allan. Her last day of full-time employment was September 1st. Lohring was shocked she lasted as long as she did after her move. “The day she told me she was moving to Portland, I knew her time was coming to an end. A four-hour commute is not sustainable”, he said.

Her role in the #MeToo movement has ignited a passion that she is supporting by going back to college to study human resources. She now speaks to people regularly on issues related to diversity, equity and inclusion, and will continue advocating for brewers and others in the industry. This includes participation in the Brave Noise initiative, the #NotMe platform, and Women of the Bevolution.

Home

The thousands of breweries that have opened in the last decade or so need to mature to sustainably grow. It has become incredibly clear that these businesses need to step up their human resource efforts. Yet, it’s not just the smaller operations that struggle with these issues. Numerous examples have been revealed just in the recent months where large breweries have failed their staff in this regard (e.g. Mikkeller, BrewDog, and Goose Island.)

Breweries of all sizes need to comprehensively and equitably think about their employee’s well-being on and off the clock. Staff commutes are one component of this. The tools are available to make a difference. It’s up to each brewery to decide whether to use them.

(Note: photos included in this post were provided by those photographed.)